SmaTrig 2.1

HDR-Jack - The ultra-compact interval and HDR trigger

This article explains how to build an ultra-compact, AVR controlled multipurpose trigger for Canon EOS cameras (e.g. EOS 350D, EOS 400D, EOS 450D, EOS 1000D). The trigger features an interval function (intervalometer) for time lapse photography and a HDR trigger mode for shooting long bracketed image series. There is also a bulb mode for astronomy or high-speed photography and a delayed trigger option for long exposure photography. The complete circuit is accommodated in the 2.5 mm jack plug needed to access the remote trigger connector. It's so small you can keep it with the camera or use it as a key fob.

HDR-jack

Interval trigger

The interval trigger function can be used for scenarios like growing flowers, moving clouds, traffic, construction and demolition of buildings, melting ice, parties, rotting food, capturing lightnings, surveillance, crowds of people, sunrises, sunsets, astronomy, time stamping... All this in Full HD or better! It's also usable for averaging (noise reduction) or tourist removing.

HDR trigger with bulb mode bracketing

The abbreviation HDRI or just HDR stands for High Dynamic Range Image. This is a technique to create a high dynamic range image from a set of photographs covering different exposure ranges. The set of photographs should have exactly the same image content, this means the image sequence is ideally shot from a tripod one after another without touching the camera. This can be easily accomplished by using the bracketing mode implemented in most DSLRs. The problem is that most cameras just allow three images with max. +-2 EV — this is not enough for very dynamic scenes like night shots. This is where the HDR-Jack comes into play. The whole series is shot at the push of a button. The trigger uses a technique called bulb mode bracketing to generate the image sequence.

BULB trigger

The classic application of the bulb mode is astrophotography. It's also useful for controlling the camera when working with a flash in a darkroom like in high-speed photography. The bulb mode can also be used to capture lightnings by triggering the camera continuously in serial shooting mode. Another application is shooting the in-camera bracketing series at once. In some cameras like the EOS 400D, you have to push the shutter button 3 times. This can be avoided using the HDR-Jack.

HDR-jack plugged

Modes of operation

The integration of the trigger circuit into a jack plug housing doesn't allow to use a switch for the direct selection of the operation mode. Instead, all functions are selected by pushing the button located at the end of the plug. This method has the advantage, that the possible number of functions is only limited by usability or in other words the user's memory for the function codes. All modes are listed in the table below with the corresponding activation sequence. The "O" in the columns "Activation" and "Interruption" stands for pushing the button one time.

#FunctionActivationInterruption
1Single shot, 2 s delayOnone
2HDR exposureOOO
3HDR exposure w/ mirror lock-upOOOO
4BULB modeOOOOO
5Discrete interval trigger
tinterval = number of pushes - 4
OOOOO+O
6Variable interval trigger
tinterval = time button pressed
O > 0.5sO

1. Single shot, 2 s delay
This function is equivalent to the 2 s self-trigger in the camera. It is meant for long time exposure where camera shake caused by pressing the shutter-button must be avoided. This mode occupies the "pole position" because it turned out to be used frequently in practice. In the EOS 400D the 2 s self-trigger is only available in mirror lock-up mode. Canon why? Because of the trigger pulse duration this mode can trigger auto-bracketed shots if the camera is set to continuous shooting.

2. HDR exposure
The camera must be in BULB and MF mode in order to use this function. In this mode the trigger generates a sequence of pulses with increasing duration. The result is a series of images with an exposure step of about 2 EV. The exposure times are approximately 1/250 s, 1/60 s, 1/15 s, 1/4 s, 1 s, 4 s, 16 s. The shortest pulse is not very reliable in terms of the effective exposure time, so the 2 EV step is not guaranteed here (tested with Canon EOS 400D).

3. HDR exposure w/ mirror lock-up
This mode is very similar to the previous one. In this mode an additional pulse is generated before each exposure sequence to lift the camera mirror. The exposure times are shifted up one EV compared to mode 2. They are 1/32 s, 1/8 s, 1/2 s, 2 s, 8 s and 32 s.

4. BULB mode
Pushing the button four times starts a long time exposure of infinite duration. Pushing it again terminates the exposure. You don't have to hold down the shutter button anymore. This mode is used usually for astro photography. It is also very useful when taking bracketed shots. If the camera is set to auto-bracketing mode combined with continuous shooting all three pictures will be taken by activating the BULB mode.

5. Discrete intervalometer
This mode allows interval shooting with an interval of N seconds, where N is the number of times the button has been pushed minus 4. Pushing five times results in an interval of 1 s, 20 pushes in 16 s and so on. The timer has been adjusted to have an error of less than 1% with canon cameras (3.3 V at remote control connector).

6. Variable intervalometer
This mode is very easy to use. If the button is held down for more than 0.5 s, the holding time becomes the interval of the timer. If you hold the button down for 22.5 seconds the interval will be 22.5 seconds. The maximum interval is more than two hours. This mode can also be used to trigger auto-bracketed shots.

All modes except the single shot mode can be interrupted by pressing the push-button once.

Usage of HDR modes

  • Plug in trigger
  • Set the camera to the manual mode M
  • Set shutter speed to BULB
  • Set aperture
  • Focus on scenery
  • Set camera to manual focus
  • (Enable mirror lock-up if desired)
  • Trigger by pushing the button in HDR-Jack

The interval modes require no special settings of the camera. It is recommended to use manual focusing especially for dark scenes to avoid missed triggers caused by focus hunting.

Compatibility

The HDR-Jack is theoretically compatible to all cameras with a 2.5 mm jack remote connector which can be triggered by pulling down the shutter wire only. The HDR-Jack was tested successfully with the Canon EOS 350D, 400D, 450D and 1000D until now. Frédéric from the autopano forum reported that at the EOS 20D only the shutter wire has to be pulled down, so the trigger will probably work with the 20D too. An N3-to-jack adapter will be necessary.
The trigger doesn't work with Canon EOS 40D, Nikon D80, Sony Alpha 300, because in these cameras both the focus and shutter wire must be pulled down to ground.
A reader reported that the HDR-Jack worked correctly with his Pentax K20D. I didn't test with Pentax myself. Pentax uses also the small 2.5 mm jack connector for remote triggering. The K200D has the problem, that the remote connector is placed so close to an adjacent wall, that you can't plug in a jack connector of normal size (clearly a design fault). Sand paper will be necessary here...

How to test a camera for HDR-Jack compatibility?

Modern DSLRs have usually two remote control wires. One controls the shutter, the other is responsible for the focus. To keep the shutter open in bulb mode, in some cameras only the shutter wire must be connected to ground. These are the good ones, which are compatible with the HDR-Jack. The others, the bad ones, require both wires to be connected to ground. As the HDR-Jack is supplied from the focus wire, pulling it down would result in a breakdown of the supply voltage and a reset of the uC.
To test your camera, switch to bulb mode and use tweezers or a piece of wire to short circuit the contacts (at your OWN RISK!). Fist connect the shutter wire to ground for a second or so and check whether the shutter stays up (and doesn't fall back spontaneously). If that works, your camera is compatible. If not, connect the focus to ground permanently and connect the shutter to ground for one second. If this method fails to keep the shutter up, you're doing something wrong or you have a very strange camera. In case it works, you are doing everything right but your cam isn't compatible. Don't forget to switch to manual focusing for immediate exposure for the test.
Don't forget to feedback your results to www.doc-diy.net and share it with other DIYers!

The Circuit - simple yet effective

HDR-jack schematics

The circuit is trivial, it consists of just three parts. The ATtiny25 AVR microcontroller, a push-button and a small cap. There is no battery, the circuit is powered by the photographer's creative energy... no it draws current from the focus-wire of the remote control connector. The whole circuit has a current consumption of just 7 uA. Why it's possible to supply a circuit from the remote control connector is explained here.
At this point I would like to acknowledge Stefan aka stefx from www.dslr-forum.de, who inspired me to start this project by posting a battery-free remote control circuit.
The last thing to mention is the strange way the AVR is connected to the supply voltage. To reduce the current consumption it's supplied via an input pin instead of the VCC pin. The trick was also used for the SmaTrig project and is described in detail here.

Parts and Assembly

The only difficulty to overcome when building the HDR-Jack is to find a push-button which is small enough to fit into a jack plug (2.5 mm) or vice versa, a housing big enough to accommodate a push-button. I found out that most housings of 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm jack plugs can be swapped. Below is a comparison of different plugs that have collected over the years in my junk box.

plugs comparison

The ATtiny25 can be replaced by an ATtiny45 or ATtiny85. The only difference is the flash memory size (and the price). There is also a low voltage version of the controller with a V appended to the name (ATtiny--V). It is also a very good (or even preferred) choice.
The cap can be replaced by a bigger value. It's value doesn't depend on the chip version or package.

The components are soldered directly to the plug connectors as shown in the images below. I glued the AVR directly to the ground lug to facilitate soldering. The push-button cables should be thin and flexible. There are many ways to build the circuit, an example is shown below

assembly 1 assembly 2 assembly 3

Software

The code is written in C. The crucial point in the code is to keep the controller in low power modes most of the time to reduce the average current consumption below 30 uA (threshold for shutter release at remote contact for EOS 400D). To achieve this, the controller is put in power-down mode and the watchdog timer is used to wake up the uC repeatedly for a few cycles via interrupt. The push-button is scanned during these short active phases and the output is changed if necessary.
The code consists of a main loop which monitors the button activity. If a function code has been detected, the uC jumps into the desired function. Most functions can be interrupted by the user by pressing the pushbutton. In this case a software reset is executed and the program restarts. Refer to the comments in the source code for further details. The necessary files can be downloaded in the download section below.
If you want to change the timing of the HDR series to longer exposure times for example, you just have to modify the code sections corresponding to the button functions. For function 2 it's

 
...
if (push==2)
{
    ...
    DDRB |= (1<<SHUTTER); 
    wait_inter_125ms(8);   // 8*125ms = 1s
    DDRB &= ~(1<<SHUTTER);
    ...
}

Note that the argument of the function wait_inter_125ms() is an unsigned 8 bit integer (0-255) resulting i a maximum time of approx. 32 s. For longer times call the function multiple times.

Programming

You will need a programmer to transfer the hex file to the microcontroller. There is a big variety of programmers on market and on DIY web sites. Depending on the features (USB, parallel port, JTAG, debugging functions) the costs range between 1 and 100 Euros. I use a home-brew STK200 clone for the parallel port. I you want to buy a programmer, go for a simple and popular (forum support) USB version. The good thing about programmers is that any programmer will program any AVR microcontroller.
If you are not familiar with microcontrollers I strongly recommend to go through one of the beginner tutorials at avrfreaks. German readers should also have a look at www.mikrocontroller.net

If you have your programmer working, the programming is rather straightforward. Note that if the AVR clock has been changed to the internal 128 kHz oscillator, tools like PonyProg won't work anymore, because the ISP communication is too fast then.
I recommend to program the flash first and change the fuse bits afterwards. The fuse settings for the HDR-Jack are shown in the screenshot below.

HDR-jack fuses

Download

hdr-jack.c - C source code
hdr-jack.hex - hex file
HDR-Jack_Bedienungsanleitung.pdf - manual in German

Can you build one for me?

Many people ask me to build the HDR-Jack for them, because they don't have the programming tools or the necessary skills in electronics. Unfortunatelly I can't build it, because I can't find the right jack plugs (long housing) anymore. Take a look at the HDR-Jack 2 or the Smatrig.

Supplement

Your ideas are welcome. If you want to propose a new function, please use the comment box below.

small parts

Last but not least:
The author takes no responsibility for any injury or damage resulting from the operation or construction of the circuit presented here. While the risk of an electrical damage of the camera is small, one reader reported a mechanical demage of his camera by a disintegrated plug blocking the connenctor.

Links

http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack2
HDR-Jack 2 - Improved battery version of the HDR-Jack

http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/eos_wired_remote
Remote trigger pinout of the Canon EOS 400D

http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2586.pdf
ATtiny25 data sheet

http://qtpfsgui.sourceforge.net
Qtpfsgui - free HDR software

Comments

Powering the circuit
Hi Luk,

Thank you very much for this site.

I have a quiestion about the design. I seem to understand that you connected PB3 to the focus-wire to power the tiny25. Is there a reason why it is wired like this and not connecting the focus-wire directly to the usual VCC pin?
#31 - Asaf Paris Mandoki - 06/19/2013 - 02:18
Re:
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#30 - JamesWilkinson31 - 01/21/2013 - 10:00
Architectural Visualisation
Thanks so much for this. I was wondering if the HDR exposure times be varied too? I would use it for HDR skydome images in 3d visualisations?
#29 - Architectural Visualisation - 12/19/2011 - 18:00
Arduino
Well I biult one, but I didnt use winavr, arvdude, or any of those others. I only had an arduino uno, and no real idea what I was doing. I setup the uno as a Programmer biult in to the Arduino software, and just copied the c code into a sketch, added the hex file and it worked!!
Just didnt really think it would work without the other instructions in your command line instruction.
Neat little project!!
#28 - John - 11/30/2011 - 23:52
Attiny85?
I bought a attiny85 chip for this purpose, but then found this brilliant project.
Will this program work with a 85?
can it be programmed with any of the arduino units such as the Uno or mega?

Cheers
#27 - John - 11/10/2011 - 23:01
Panobot Trigger
Sir,

I am a fan of your work. You have done excellent projects for photographers. Your website is one stop solutiosn for finding photography related projects :)

Sir, I am in a process of building a panoramic robot. we have made base, mechanical with steppers and gears. Now With help of local hobyist club we have made its basic board. We are using PIC because AVR controllers are hard to find specially ATINITY.

Now at this stage base is rotating frame, stopping but we are capturing images manually. This is where we need your help. I have basic knowledge that we make a circuit to short focus+ground or shutter + ground cables to focus or take images. we need to add a multiprupose trigger like that into panoramic robot. So that it can take HDR/bracketed images, timelapse images etc.

We have Canon 20d. Can you please! Guide us how can we make such a trigger attached with microcontroller. Any help with PIC will be highly appreciated. But I hope AVR code can be used in PIC. I am not an expert into all these electronics things :)) But my hobbyist club member can understand that.

Looking forward for your help and being an expert we will be very thankful if your share any valuable idea from your side regarding our project.

Regards,

Emaad

#26 - Emaad - 05/30/2011 - 08:56
ATtiny25
Hallo Luk
Ich wrde gern bei Ihnen jeweils einen
ATtiny25 programmiert fr HDR-Jack und HDR-Jack 2
bestellen.
Vielen Dank schon im Voraus
Gnter Schmidt
#25 - Gnter Schmidt - 04/26/2011 - 20:55
60D
Congrats! The 60D is the only big Canon with a jack plug. You can send me a picture for the site if you like.
#24 - luki - 03/17/2011 - 16:44
Goodie!
Just build mine....works great on my Canon EOS 60D :)
#23 - AJ - 03/14/2011 - 22:20
Sony Alpha
No, the HDR-Jack won't work with a Sony Alpha, because you need to shortcircuit both shutter and focus for bulb exposure in cameras of the Alpha series. The HDR-Jack 2 also described on this web site works fine with Sony.
#22 - luk - 12/14/2009 - 10:51
Does HDR Jack work with Sony Alpha 350???
#21 - microvvave - 12/12/2009 - 16:31
Frage zur Programmierung
Hallo nochmal.

Ist es dir mglich, weitere Programmierungen hinzu zufgen?

MfG
Panagiotopoulos
#20 - Panagiotopoulos - 11/19/2009 - 14:16
again another great device that i'd love to buy. why don't you sell them?
#19 - free wallpapers - 10/19/2009 - 17:32
int0 wake-up
Hi vlad,

thanks for the hint. I already developed a similar version of the code for battery operation using INT0 as wake-up source without WDT. In case of the HDR-Jack the supply current (7 uA with WDT) has no meaning so I didn't upgrade the code.

I used the ATtiny25 because it's a popular chip and I had a bunch of them in my junk box. I also like the option to upgrade to 4k or 8k. The tiny13 is the cheapest "hardware" for the HDR-Jack, but it's becoming obsolete now.

Luk
#18 - luk - 06/22/2009 - 10:59
Why not using the int0-interupt?
so you can save the watchdog and the wakeupcycles.
just activate the int0 interupt (configure to low level) and go to powerdown.

ISR(INT0_vect)
{} // dont do anything, but have to exist, otherwise it may go to reset

main
{
while(1)
{
set_sleep_mode( SLEEP_MODE_PWR_DOWN);
GIMSK |= (1 << INT0);
sleep_enable();
sei();
sleep_cpu();
GIMSK &= ~(1 << INT0); // disable int0 interupt
sleep_disable();
//do your stuff
}
}

You can also use an attiny13, it has less flash/sram/eeprom but still sufficent for your task.
#17 - vlad - 06/21/2009 - 11:03
I emailed with Stefan and we found out that the auto-focus was on during the tests. Because the camera needs an unpredictable time to focus, the bracketing doesn't work correctly. The Jack works now, but he stil has problems with the shortest exposure at his 450D. If you plan to build the HDR-Jack, I recommend to shift the bracketing one EV down and start with 1/125 s instead of the instable 1/2XX.
Luk
#16 - luk - 04/24/2009 - 10:13
Re: HDR-Jack not working with EOS 450D
I think the problem you're experiencing may be due to your VCC capacitor size. If it's too large the inrush current to charge the capacitor initially may be too large and drag down the shutter line. My only suggestion then would be to decrease your cap size. Should work if you don't also need to pull down the focus line to shoot in which case long exposures may cause it to fail.
#15 - Edward - 04/24/2009 - 02:37
Hi Stefan, hi DIYers!

I've build the HDR-Jack with the standard and the V version of the tiny25. Both versions seem to work fine, at least the users didn't complain. My personal Jack works also with the standard version. According to the data sheet, the standard version works at its lower supply voltage limit (or maybe below?).

I guess your uC draws too much current at the start and can not reach the sleep command. If the active mode current is too high, the supply voltage sags and the chip resets.

Did you set the fuses correctly? You have to choose the 128 kHz internal low power oscillator as clock source. The default clock source is the 8 MHz internal oscillator with the divider set to 8 resulting in 1 MHz clock frequency. Please check it before switching to the V version.

I also observed that the 1/250 exposure time is sometimes skipped on some cameras. I'm going to rewrite the code to start with 1/125 s and end with 30 s. The 1/125 exposure is very stable, according to my test with the EOS 400D.

Apropos Nikon: The trigger can be probably used with a battery without reprogramming. You just have to connect the shutter _and_ focus wire to the trigger pin (PB0 in the schematic above). You don't need two separate output pins. Connecting the battery to VCC, PB3, PB4 or PB5 should make no difference. If you go via PB3, PB4 or PB5 the supply current has to pass an additional protection diode and the effective supply voltage is reduced by approx. 0.5 volts.
I recommend to reprogram the timing if the trigger is used with Nikon cameras. On a D80 I measured a minimum bulb exposure time of 1/10 s. With the current code three shots would be lost.

Luk

#14 - Luk - 04/08/2009 - 10:45
HDR-Jack not working with EOS 450D
Hi,

I've just finished the HDR-Jack and to my disappointment ... it doesn't work (yet)! :(

The microcontroller (C): ATtiny45 (without V)

The problem: Camera shoots immediately after switch on (shutter release), but no completion of the photograph (shutter stays open until switch off the camera). HDR-jack button push brings no effect!

Voltage measurement (in this non-working state):

Vcc-Pin (PIN8): 1.44V
Focus-PIN (PIN2): 1.98V

... so obviously too less for the C to work properly (at least 2.7V needed according to the ATtiny datasheet)! My theory: the C can not turn on properly after camera switch on, so for some reason it releases the shutter immediately and maybe draws too much current, so the voltage can not rise to 3 volts (actually 3,31V both on shutter release line and focus line according to my measurement without HDR-jack).

After some experiments I've found out, that the C's function can be activated by applying 3,3V for a moment (or continuously) either on PIN2 or PIN8. This seems to bring the camera's function (actually the C function) back to life.

Voltage measurements in this working state:

Vcc (PIN8): 2,70V
V focus line (PIN2): 3,11V
Current (what the C draws from the external power supply): 4-6 A

My conclusion:

The HDR-Jack with C WITHOUT the V in the name doesn't work (at least on my EOS 450D) until a short 3,3V pulse is given to the C by an external voltage source.

So use ALWAYS a C WITH V in the name (same story like with the SmaTrig 15-in-1 trigger)!

Another issue with (my) EOS 450D: 1/250 shutter speed in HDR mode doesn't work too (no photograph at that speed). The other speeds are working fine though!

Thanks for the great HDR-jack which filled the HDR function lack of my EOS and prevented me from completely throwing it in the corner and playing around with my PowerShot S5 in association with CHDK (Canon Hackers Development Kit) in the HDR mode (a good tip though).

Stefan


PS: My HDR-Jack now works with an external lithium coin cell 2032 (actually bought for my next project: SmaTrig) until I get some ATtiny-xx-V.

So for those who's cameras won't work with the powerless HDR-Jack (e.g. the Nikon guys) because of the need of both the focus AND shutter lines to be drawn to ground: use a small lithium cell (3,10V) on the Vcc PIN (PIN8) and your focus line PIN (PIN2) can be freed for this function; reprogramming of the source code may be inevitable though (Lukasz?). With 6 A being drawn by the C, the coin cell my last for years as described in the SmaTrig project (46 months to be exact :) OK, the compactness of the HDR-Jack is lost in this case.
#13 - Stefan - 04/04/2009 - 18:24
Nikon compatibility
I made a test with the D80 and found out that you have to shortcircuit _both_ the shutter and focus wire for bulb exposure, so the HDR-Jack won't work. I guess it will apply to the D90, too. You can test this on your own if you have the adapter for Nikon's odd pseudo usb remote connector. I'll add a section about how to test to the article.

Luk
#12 - luk - 04/01/2009 - 10:14
is it possible for nikon cameras?
hi , i must have to say that i'm impressed
i have a question, is it possible to make it work with nikon cameras ( like D90 model)? if yes can someone make one for me ( obviously im willing to pay )
thanks
#11 - juan dsavid - 03/30/2009 - 08:03
Want one! (or two)
Hi Guys, this looks just the ticket as I often capture HDR pano's of environments for my 3D work.

I'm willing to pay someone to build a couple of these for me as I've no electronics knowledge whatsoever.

Conatct me via darren@thomascgi.com

Thanks
#10 - Darren Thomas - 03/26/2009 - 12:56
programmer+wired remote modification
Hi Jim, Hi cut,

The integration of the chip into the wired remote control enclosure is no problem. You just connect the cable and the switch (full press contact) to the chip. You can even use a DIP package instead of SMD for the microcontroller. There is enough space in the remote. You can also integrate an extra button in the side wall if you want to preserve the full functionality of the remote. The only problem is that I didn't test the HDR-Jack with the 5D(mk2).

About programming: I added some info about programming to the web site above. I recommend you a simple USB programmer. I use a parallel port programmer, but I know it's not a solution for the future.

luk
#9 - luk - 03/25/2009 - 14:11
Where to get the programmer for the chip
Howdy,
Looking forward to making this, however I can not find the right progrmmer board for the chip.

Any hints there?
#8 - Jim - 03/19/2009 - 04:40
canon 5d II
hi , really nice project . I just bought a canon 5d II and I just ordered

http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/aputure/product-detailroGJpOYyJUkL/China-Cable-Remote-for-Canon-EOS-AP-R3C-.html .

so that remote already have most of parts for yours invention. do you belive it is possible to make "hdr-jack" out of it?

cut
#7 - cut - 03/09/2009 - 14:45
Very interesting!
Can the HDR exposure times be varied? For my HDR skydome images (for 3d visualisation) I typically shoot from 1/4000 to about 1s as I usually have the sun in the image.

I'd be willing to pay someone to make one of these for me, I reckon its probably beyond my capabilities!
#6 - Peter Guthrie - 02/23/2009 - 13:55
Modification
Hi Nils,

this is a good idea. I thought of it too after pushing the button so many times. I'll implement this 2^N series in the new version of the trigger, I'm currently building. I will set the longest interval to 8h or three images per day. This would allow for a daily time lapse movie.

Luk
#5 - luk - 02/18/2009 - 14:41
E6-Row of Resistors - Suggestion
Hey Luk,

Very nice project!!!
I suggest modifying your 5th mode according to this:
Instead of taking:
interval_time = number of pushes - 4

try to implement:

interval_time = 60^((number of pushes - 4)/6)

This divides every "60" into 6 steps (according to the Theory of the E-Reihe):
1 push(+4) = 2 (rounded to full seconds)
2 4
3 8
4 15
5 30
6 60
7 2 minutes(rounded to full minutes)
and so on
If this is repeated 3 times, you will be able to set long interval times (push 18 times for 60h interval).
you could also take the 24h interval instead of the 30 h interval for the 17pushbuttontimes.

Cheers, Nils
#4 - Nils - 02/17/2009 - 13:52
Very cool
I hadn't thought of a single button interface/solution, so much simpler and more elegant than my arduino bracketmeister: http://newyorkpanorama.com/2009/01/21/long-exposure-night-hdr-photography-with-arduino/

well done, thx for posting.
#3 - Joergen Geerds - 01/28/2009 - 16:58
Yes, I know but I'planning to have a long shoot session so the less power i take from the camera's battery the best it is.. ;)
At first I was also looking wor something tieh a display.. when making lapse time of 30min for ex, its a bit tricky to keep the button pushed for 40min ;)

Otherwise it's a great (and cheap?) design!
#2 - Cyril - 01/22/2009 - 14:35
No power supply needed
Hi Cyril!

The main feature of the HDR-Jack is that no external power supply is needed. The supply current is drawn from the camera's remote connector (read the section "The Circuit simple yet effective"). You can use the Trigger with Canon EOS 350D, 400D, 450D, 1000D. Pentax was not tested until now. Other manufacturers have different plugs.

Cheers, luk
#1 - luk - 01/22/2009 - 10:29
Wow!
wow...!
I've been looking for such device (time lapse shooting) for ages and this looks really interesting!
The only thing is that it doesn't have it's own power supply... would it be possible to implement one in it..? (but twould increase size/weight :(
#0 - Cyril - 01/21/2009 - 10:45
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